I have been using Insteon for several years until one day they went down without a warning. Lighting and smart controls are very important to me. I did my research and decided to switch to KASA products. For over two years I have replaced over 50 switches, dimmers, plugs, 3-way switches and dimmers at my home and recommended and helped my friends too with replacing and configuring their KASA switches. I have amazing experience with customer service when I changed the Network at my home. I wish KASA also provides more than 3-Way switches. I have some lights operated by 6 different switches and a 3-way switch can't be installed there.

UPDATE 3: It's now been long enough for me to believe that TP-Link has successfully corrected the problem I referenced in UPDATE 1 below. My units have continued to work successfully for well over a month now, including self recovering once power was restored from a power outage. All have continued to work flawlessly with all of my my Echo (Alexa) devices and I've been able to verify I can use the Kasa app to turn lights on and off from anywhere I have internet access on my cell phone. While I'm at it I should note that one limitation for these is that they are strictly single pole (SPST) switches, which means they can't be installed in place of a 3-way (SPDT) switch . It would be nice if TP-Link offered a 3-way version of the product for those of us who might want to use one with a multi-switch installation. UPDATE 2 (upgrade 1 star): I'm raising my previous 2 star downgrade to a 1 star downgrade since TP-Link finally recognized they had a serious disconnect between their Kasa app and Amazon's Alexa app (it sure took them long enough). It appears (for now) that they have corrected whatever caused the problem, but I won't trust their Smart Home devices to retain their settings until my devices behave as advertised for at least a month. After the fix, for a plug I originally named "Back Porch" in the Kasa app and which I subsequently renamed "Porch", the Alexa app, even after rediscovery, insisted on looking for "Back Porch" from the Kasa app instead of "Porch" until I deleted it from the Alexa app and rediscovered it; i.e., there are still bugs. Otherwise, it's been so far so good, but I'm not convinced it won't revert again to the erratic behavior I experience over a period of about 3 weeks, long enough that I was tempted to scrub the whole kit and kaboodle. If TP-Link keeps their Smart Home devices squeaky clean for about the next 6 months, my confidence in them will be sufficiently restored to revert to my original 5-star assessment. UPDATE:1 (downgrade 2 stars): I'm lowering my review from 5 stars to 3 because these simply do not consistently behave. I have become expert at factory reset to get them operating again, but the key point is that I can't trust them to remain operational for more than a few hours before I get messages from Alexa that a device is not responding, or from the Kasa app that it can't find the device, sometimes after having set it up just a few hours earlier, and that's for a plug within a few feet of the my wi-fi range extender. It would appear TP-Link needs a firmware upgrade. I suppose I could replace my wi-fi router and range extender with one from TP-Link, but that seems stupid since my wi-fi works just fine with lap top, cell phone, TV, etc. Make no mistake, these represent a very cool idea, but as currently being sold they are way too finicky. Original review: I have 3 versions of the TP-Link Smart Home technology distributed within my house. Being able to control outlets and switches using them is perhaps the major reason I have that many. This is just one of a number of Smart Home products an Echo can handle. It differs from the plug ins in that you install it permanently in place of an existing manual wall switch. Installation is no different than installing any other wall switch, except this one is smart, at least in the sense that it can be operated by wifi as well as manually. The form factor is actually smaller than that of most dimmer modules, so it should fit in most switch boxes. After installation, you set it up for wifi via the (free) Kasa app (a very intuitive exercise) and from there tie it to your Echo system as a Smart Home product. In the Kasa app you can change the name to whatever you want and then have the (free) Echo app "discover" the new name. Operation is flawless and is entertaining (e.g., "Alexa, turn on the patio light", where "patio light" is the name you selected for the smart switch). You can operate it manually via the Kasa app, or via Alexa as you wish! You can also program it for automatic operation. Any one of my Echo's can operate it. It does require reasonable access to your home wifi network to work as advertised. I now have a number of Smart Home products installed, and the software does not seem to have any issues keeping them sorted out (far more reliably than the obsolete X-10 system I used to rely on). Here's my take on the steps for installation of the switch: 1) first turn off the circuit breaker that controls the existing switch (easy to test, since if the switch doesn't work, the power to it is off); 2) your existing switch should be across the "hot" line that supplies power to the load (a lamp or whatever), one black (hot) line for power coming in, and one black line for power passed on from the switch to the load. You simply remove the existing switch, disconnect its two black wires, and use wire nuts to hook them to the black wires for this switch (order doesn't matter). 3) the "return" that completes the circuit is through the "neutral" white line (always present unless you have some really squirrely wiring). You hook the white wire to the neutral line using a wire nut, cutting/stripping the neutral wire as necessary (usually not necessary since most installations will already have a wire nut connection for the neutral line). 4) if there is a ground line (a bare wire in the switch box) connect the green line to it using a wire nut (if not, don't bother, but insulate it using one of the wire nuts or electrical tape). 5) turn the circuit breaker back on and verify the smart switch works as a manual switch, then go through the set up procedure. NOTE: 4 wire nuts are included in the package in case your current installation is one with the black wires attached directly to the old switch. A switch plate is included that you have to snap off for installation. The switch has the Decora form factor, so if your existing switch is not Decora style, you will need to use the included plate or pick up one from some place like Home Depot to match your needs.

I have been a very happy user of Kasa devices for at least 3 years and now have 28 devices throughout our home. Thanks to Kasa we're more energy efficient, safer and enjoying the happy conveniences of a smart home. I love their well-designed hardware - solid construction and sleek, modern, clean lines that fit well with our modern home. The devices were also highly reliable, working from the start and never failing in their steady, dependable operation. And especially I love their mobile app, intuitive installation guide and ongoing feature enhancements, seamless integration with Alexa, etc. As the CEO of an IoT software company, I even asked my development teams to look at Kasa as an example of what we should do for our industrial line of products. In my view, the Kasa installation guides are a best practice which our company had to adopt as well! Normally I'd stop there and say, "Great job Kasa!" and "Don't hesitate for a second if you're thinking of committing to Kasa for your own home!" But recently I discovered another side of Kasa / TP-Link - and I just had to finally lean in and write this customer review. I've never had an issues with a Kasa device until installing this motion sensor switch. I was looking for a way to automatically turn off our bathroom fans to save on electricity costs. Motors suck up lots of electricity and our teenage boys don't think of turning things off, ever. :-) So I hoped that Kasa would ride to the rescue. But alas, I'll admit, I was disappointed. For some reason the fans wouldn't shut off using the motion sensing rules - which are easy to program by the way. Finally, for the first time, I decided I had to contact Kasa / TP-Link customer service for support. And I didn't know what to expect. It's not like many tech firms excel in customer support. But that's when I saw a whole new side of the company... I am now not just a huge fan of their devices and software, but also of their friendly, effective and dedicated people!!! Thanks so much to Betsy and Tyrone (hope it's okay to use your support names!) My emails were responded too quickly. Their suggestions for fixes were clear and actionable. And when it turned out that the normal fixes didn't work, Tyler came through by getting TP-Link's engineering team on the case... Another highlight of my experience I just have to share! It turns out the devices needed a firmware update, but that hadn't yet been released for general availability. So, Tyrone was able to work with his engineers to provide a product firmware update to address our motion sensor problem - and it worked. He was always responsive, even proactive, following up to see if things had been corrected! He was very clear in his communications, and focused on getting this working with the full resources of TP-Link behind him. That, my Amazon friends and fellow Kasa customers - or future customers - is just magic. It's one thing to buy products that always work ... And it's a whole new level to see a company so dedicated to customer satisfaction that they go the extra mile to fix a problem when inevitably, a problem does arise. My commitment to Kasa / TP-Link went up several and eventually we'll have every switch and plug in home updated to Kasa so impressed I was by how they handled our firmware fix and update. THANK YOU Tyrone and Betsy - YOU ROCK!! Sam

Created a routine to turn porch lights on at dusk and off at midnight because I didn't like finding my lights on at 10AM on weekends. Nice to have this be completly automated. Easy to install, good wire with plenty of length & decent wire nuts. Feels like a good switch though I never need to touch it. It definitely has a clean look!

I made the jump to a "Smart Home" a little over a month ago after Alexa joined our family. After talking to some friends, doing some research and assesing my needs I settled on TP-Link because of the variety of Smart products they offered, no requirements for a Hub, the lower cost and the ability to control everything from one simple app on my Smart phone and Amazon"s Alexa. I have not been disappointed. After a very short learning curve, I surprisingly found the installation and set-up of all the TP-Link Smart devices extremely easy and intuitive. I have installed several different Smart devices including three different bulbs (LB-100, 120 & 130) depending on the area, as well as, Smart Switches (HB-200) and Smart Plugs. All of it has installed, programed and worked with few problems. The only criticism I have is the Kasa App. I have found it to be a bit bugy at times, but since I use it primarily for programming and setting up new devices and scenes, rather than operationally, it has not been an issue since Alexa handels most of that work. So far, in the six weeks my Smart Home has been in operation I have only had one problem where Alexa and the Kasa app lost communication with most of (but not all) of my TP-Link devices. But after a bit of head scratching I was able to restore communication. So here's a tip to remember: I first tried rebooting the devices by cycling the power breaker, but that didn't work. Probably due to multiple devices signaling simultaneously and overloading Kasa. But, powering each device down for a few seconds then back up, and testing it before moving on ro the next one worked without a problem. I also recommend using a different control application. I only have experience with Amazon Alexa, but it also interfaces with Google Home among others. I have found that controlling scenes from Kasa not to be reluable for some reason, while issuing the scene commands to Alexa works 90% of the time, with repeating the command becoming necessary about 10% of the time. But even with an occasional repeated command being necessary, TP-Link devices respond extremely well through Alexa's control. Plus Alexa is able to easily "group" multiple devices so you can control areas with a single command, or program macro activities that Alexa can perform with a single command. Capabilities Kasa does not have. This is another deficiency of the Kasa app. Without the ability to group devices or run macro routines, it relies on programmed scenes which are very limiting for operational control. So another controlling app like Alexa or Home is essential to the TP-Link Smart Home system. For me, because I have Alexa for operational control, both at home and away, these short comings in the Kasa app are non-issues. But if I didnt have this capability I think I would look to a different Hub controlled platform for my Smart Home lighting and device control. HS-200 Smart Switch: I am a retired electrician, so I found the installation easy. Most DIY homeowners with a basic knowledge of electricity and components should also have few problems with the installation. I found this Smart Switch easy to control and the installation is about the same as replacing a standard light switch. But, a big drawback is not have a dimming capability. To me this should be a no-brainer and i cant understand why this featire is lacking. Because that would makevthis a 5 star product. So before you procede there are a couple of precautions that should be noted. First, you must three wires plus the ground (usually bare or green), and one must be the neutral (usually white) third wire, or the switch simply will not work. This can be an issue in some older homes (and even in some newer ones too). The neutral wire is the "common" wire that runs throughout the house and is common to all circuits. It completes the loop in the circuit from the electrical box to the receptacle. The "hot" (or "line") wire (usually black) carries the electrical load for that circuit only (usually 15-20 amps max). And finally, the "load" wire (usually black, red, or it could even be white) completes the hot side of the circuit between the switch and the receptacle. To save time and money some electricians when wiring homes "old school" would complete the light circuit by running the neutral to the light receptacle and then run a 2 conductor (plus ground) to the switch. So even though you may have a white and black wire at the switch, the white wire is not a neutral, but the load wire that that completes the hot circuit when the switch is turned on (closed). So if you don't have 3 wires, one of them being the white neutral, you are out of luck using a Smart Switch. You can control the light however, by using Smart bulbs and then grouping them in the controling app (like Alexa). Another caution is wire management. Standard light switches don't take up much room, so the original installing electrician had lots of room in the box to stuff extra wire. This is a luxury you don't have since the Smart Switch is much deeper and takes up most of the box. The new switch also uses leads that are wire nutted to the circuit wires and not terminated on the switch itself. Because of this, it may be necessay to shorten the wires to make room in the box for the extra electronics and wire nuts. My advice is to open your intended switch boxes to survey your electrical wiring BEFORE you order the switches, so there are no surprises when it comes time to install. One last safety precaution. Be sure to turn off the circuit at the electrical panel (breaker box). Also don't assume that all switches in a multi-switch box are on the same circuit. It is often the case that multiple circuits are in the box. This is especially true when a switch is controling a plug. So check all wires in the box with a meter to insure nothing is hot. Finally, when wire nutting multiple wires it is VERY EASY to leave a wire loose. This can be very dangerous, as loose wires can work themselves free and cause arking and sparking that can damage connected equipment, and worse, start a fire. This is a common cause of electrical fires, and you might not know there is a problem until it's too late. So to ensure all wire nut connections are tight and secure, tug on each wire at the nut with needle nose pliers. If you can't pull it loose it should be good to go. Also make sure there are no bare wires poking out of the nuts. The switches use stranded wire so it's easy to have some stray strands loose outside the nut. So that's about it. The install is pretty easy most of the time, but if you don't think you're experienced enough to do the job safely, put this phase of the job in the hands of a professional. It should be an easy job for any professional electrician, and should not be terribly expensive. Consider it cheep insurance!

The switch works well, and was easy to install and connect to Wi-Fi and integrated very well into my Google home app. I plan to purchase a few more.

My whole house is loaded with KASA products...smart bulbs, smart switches, led strips etc. One thing I had not upgraded was my porch light switch, mainly because I already had a programmable switch in the circuit. Unfortunately, that switch was programmed at the unit with a teeny tiny buttons and digital display. I don't like the porch light on all night, so I have to reprogram the light as the sunset times change. In Washington State that can be anywhere from 430pm to almost 10pm. Programing the old switch was a pain because of that and it did not recognize the yearly time changes. I bought the Kasa switch so I can do everything through the app. The installation was easy, especially since my wiring was labeled with "load" etc. The switch fit in a double gang box just fine and it worked with my existing faceplate. Now, my porch light cycles on and off when I want it too. If you want your porch light on sunset to sunrise, Kasa has that setting also. The app automatically adjusts to time changes. The only reason I did not give the switch five stars is it seems a little light duty. I never touch my switch, so it does not matter. If you have an "analog" person in your house who just HAS to flip switches on manually, I am not sure how long it the switch would last. Really, that should not be an issue because the whole reason to automate your home is so you do not have to flip random switches. KASA is great. You can do everything from your phone or tablet. KASA with Alexa is even better. You don't have to reach for your device in the dark...just say "Alexa, turn on bedside lamp." It is just that easy. Leaving to go on a trip? You can schedule your lights to mimic when they go on and off when you are home....fake out those would be thieves. Everything can be done seamlessly through the Kasa App. I highly recommend KASA products. Automate your home....DO IT NOW! Add an Alexa, Google Home or IFTTT control unit and enter whole new world.

I installed two of these, to replace the X10 controlled switches on my front porch and front garage lights. Installation was easy and they work great. The old X10 switches were controlled by powerline signals sent by a separate control timer box, but over the years this became unreliable. Also the X10 control timer was "dumb" in that I had to change the on/off times as the seasons changed if I wanted the lights to come on and off near the sunset and sunrise times. With the new Kasa switches, I simply told the Kasa app to turn them on and off with the sunset and sunrise times for my location, and it knows exactly when that is as the year progresses! You can even program an offset to the sun times if you like, say 30 minutes before or after sunset. I already had the Kasa app on my phone, since I got and use EP10 smart plugs on some lamps in the home, and they work great too. One of the HS200 switches found my WiFi immediately, the other had difficulty at first, but I followed the instructions and pushed the reset button on the switch and it then rebooted and found the WiFi right away. One thing to keep in mind is to make sure your cell phone is on the same exact WiFi network as the device, just for the initial setup, then the setup will go forward easily. In my case, I keep IOT devices like these switches on a separate isolated network, so I logged the phone into that first (a 2.4 GHz network), did the install, then logged the phone back into its usual 5GHz network. Another tip is to use plastic faceplates over them (not metal), so you don't impair the WiFi signal. I replaced my old metal face plates with new plastic ones. Tips on wiring: Your old switch may be connected to only two wires (hot in, hot out) and this HS200 switch needs two wires (hot and neutral) plus ground. My old switch had only two wires, so I added a new 14-gauge white wire as a jumper to the several white neutral lines that were tied together in the box. 14-gauge wire can handle up to 15A or 1800W on a 120V circuit, which is enough for these switched circuits. One end of my jumper I added to the existing white neutral wires (all held together by the existing wire nut in the box). The other end of my jumper I attached to the white lead of the HS200 using the supplied wire nut. You could just directly connect the white lead of the HS200 to the wire nut holding all of the white wires, but I used a jumper to give me greater distance in my box (a two-switch box). One of the black "hot" leads of the HS200 I connected to one of the two wires that had been connected to my old switch, with a wire nut. The other black lead on the HS200 I connected to the remaining wire that had been connected to my switch, with the other wire nut. Finally I connected the green ground lead of the HS200 to my box itself, which is grounded to the house grounding system, through the metal conduits. You screw the HS200 back into the box, just like any other switch, attach the face plate, and then use the Kasa app to set it up. One final tip: The plastic faceplate that comes attached to the HS200 is on very tight and takes some force to remove. If you are not using the supplied face plate, you'll need to remove it. There is a video on Youtube that gives guidance on how to hold and twist it off. Or, you can insert a flat bladed screwdriver into a slot on the bottom of the device, between the switch body and the face plate, and pry them apart with the blade. I did both approaches with my two HS200 switches, and both work well. Good luck!

Needed to replace another smart switch that had gone bad on me. This one was easy to install, paired well with Google Assistant and has worked without issue now for a few weeks. Quite happy.

These are fantastic switches if you just need a basic on/off switch. The switch will not work if you have 2 or more switches controlling the same light (3-way switching). I've installed tons of switches, lights, electrical boxes and plugs and I found these to be exactly as easy as any other switch to install. A nice touch is that the pre-attached wires on the back of the box are already exposed and the ends are soldered so there's a nice surface to attach to the existing home wires. You need to verify that the box you're planning to install the switch in is of standard depth and now shallow before ordering because these switches are very deep. You also need to make sure there's a common wire in the switch box you're updating. This is usually a white wire that is capped to another white wire in the box and not connected to the current switch. Regular light switches don't use this wire, it just by-passes in the box. You will usually have this wire if there are two sets of wire coming into the box at the switch. Some switches are at the end of the line on a circuit and they will have both the white and black wire already connected to the switch. In that case, when the white wire is connected to the switch, the white wire is NOT A COMMON WIRE. It's only a common wire if it's NOT CONNECTED to a traditional switch. I hope that helps with some of the confusion I've seen in other comments. As for the other important things about electrical work like turning off the breaker, please make sure you have some type of voltage meter or power line detector. Just because the light goes out doesn't always mean that there are not live wires in the box. Some boxes have more than one circuit running thru them. Pros: 1. Install took me about 5 minutes per switch and I installed 3 of them and got them added to Kasa in under an hour. 2. The quality of the touch and feel of the switch is really nice. 3. The lights on the switch are small and dim and not too noticeable from across the room, but are useful when setting up 4. The time between turning the light on/off in the app and when the switch completes the task is under a second - Very fast 5. The switch makes a slightly audible "click" when you touch it and if you turn it on/off with the app. That's a really nice touch. 6. These are white switches with white covers and the cover is of very high quality 7. As with all the TP-Link Smart home stuff, you can take a picture to use as a label in the app - this helps when you have 17 devices like I have in the home 8. Works with Alexa and so far has been flawless 9. Easy to mix with the TP-Link bulbs (though pointless on the same light) and plugs so that you can control everything from one app and alexa. 10. Scheduled on/off times that can be linked to Sunrise and Sunset. This is PERFECT for my porch light that I leave on all night for security sake. Cons: 1. Does not do 3-way switching - If you want to do a more advanced setup, there is a way to wire the current 3-way switch so that one switch is always on or bypassed. This will effectively make the TP-Link switch the only working switch on the circuit, but I don't love that solution. 2. Does not Dim - when in a group of dimmable lights under alexa the switch will turn off if you select any amount of dimming when you ask alexa to turn it on. For example: "Alexa, turn on Dining Room at 100%" will cause the dimmable light bulbs to turn on, but these switches will not. If the light is already on when you give this command it will actually turn off. I'd prefer that the switch just turn on regardless of what dimming percentage you use. 3. The switch is deep and with pre-attached wires it can take up a lot of room in a crowded electrical box. 4. The tabs on the top and bottom of the switch that allow you to screw it to the box and a cover to it are thicker than a normal plugs. This means that if you use a different switch cover (like one for 2 or more switches side-by-side) this switch will sometimes push the cover forward causing there to be a slight gap between the cover and wall. Not enough for me to be disappointed by it, but enough that my OCD is a little tweeked. I would recommend these to anyone. They're perfect for my porch lights, and for any HID or other special over-head light that you have that can't be dimmed. If you're looking for a solution that can be dimmed these are not for you. I ordered one extra on accident and I'm installing it at a friend's house this weekend to try and also get him hooked on this stuff :) Welcome to the future!